Visit Montenegro, country which is once overlooked in favor of more well-known Mediterranean nations, Montenegro is fast gaining a reputation as a great place to travel. It’s easy to see why. Mountainous hinterland nestles deep canyons, gushing rivers, glacial lakes and primeval forest, popular for adventure activity.
Herceg Novi
It’s easy to drive straight through Herceg Novi (Montenegro) without noticing anything worth stopping for, especially if you’ve just come from Croatia with visions of Dubrovnik still dazzling your brain.
However, just below the uninspiring roadside frontage hides an appealing Old Town with ancient walls, sunny squares and a lively atmosphere.
The water’s cleaner here, near the mouth of the bay, and while the town’s pebbly coves and concrete swimming terraces aren’t all that great, taxi boats do a brisk trade ferrying people to the secluded beaches on the Luštica Peninsula.
Sights
Stari Grad
Herceg Novi’s Old Town is at its most impressive when approached from the pedestrianonly section of ul Njegoševa, which is paved in the same shiny marble as Dubrovnik and lined in elegant, mainly 19th-century buildings.
The street terminates in cafe-ringed Trg Nikole Ðurkovića, where steps lead up to an elegant crenulated clock tower (1667) which was once the main city gate.
Just inside the walls is Trg Herceg Stjepana (commonly called Belavista Sq), a gleaming white piazza that’s perfect for relaxing, drinking and chatting in the shade.
At its centre is the Orthodox Archangel Michael’s Church (Crkva Sv Arhanđela Mihaila; 7am-midnight Jun-Aug, to 9pm Sep-May) . Built between 1883 and 1905, its lovely proportions are capped by a dome and flanked by palm trees. Its Catholic counterpart, St Jerome’s (Crkva Sv Jeronima) , is further down the hill, dominating Trg Mića Pavlovića.
Kanli-Kula
The big fort visible from the main road was a notorious prison during Turkish rule (roughly 1482–1687). You can walk around its sturdy walls and enjoy views over the town. In the dungeon below the lower set of flagpoles, former inmates have carved crosses and ships into the walls.
Savina Monastery
From its hillside location in the town’s eastern fringes, this peaceful Orthodox monastery enjoys wonderful coastal views. It’s dominated by the elegant 18th-century Church of the Dormition, carved from pinkish stone. Inside there’s a beautiful gilded iconostasis, but you’ll need to be demurely dressed to enter (no shorts,singlets or bikinis).
The smaller church beside it has the same name but is considerablyolder (possibly 14th century) and has the remains of frescos. The monastery is well signposted from the large roundabout on the highway at Meljine.
Regional Museum
Apart from the building itself (which is a fab bougainvillea-shrouded baroque palace with absolute sea views), the highlight of this little museum is its impressive icon gallery.
Španjola Fortress
Situated high above the town, this fortress was started and finished by the Turks but named after the Spanish (yep, in 1538 they had a brief stint here as well). If the graffiti and empty bottles are anything to go by, it’s now regularly invaded by local teenagers.
Activities
Can arrange pretty much anything, anywhere in the country, including mountain biking, diving, rafting, hiking, paragliding, canyoning, boat trips, wine tasting, accommodation, car hire and transfers.
Kayak Montenegro
Offers paddling day tours across the bay to Rose and Dobreč or Mamula and Mirišta (€45 including equipment), as well as day trips to explore Lake Skadar. (www.kajakmontenegro.com)
Sleeping
Private rooms start at about €15 per person. Either look for signs saying ‘sobe’ or book through a local agency such as Trend Travel (www.trendtravelmontenegro.com)
Camp Full Monte
Hidden in the mountains near the Croatian border, this small British-run camping ground offers solar-generated hot water, odourless composting toilets and a whole lot of seclusion. If you hadn’t guessed already, clothing is optional. Tents (with full bedding) can be hired and meals can be arranged.
Hotel Perla
It’s a 15- minute stroll from the centre but if it’s beach you’re after, Perla’s position is perfect. The
front rooms of this medium-sized modern block have private terraces and sea views. (www.perla.me)
Izvor
On the slopes above Igalo, this simple place consists of four basic shared rooms which open on to a terrace overlooking the bay. There’s a traditional restaurant downstairs (mains €4 to €9). (www.izvor.me)
Vila Aleksandar
The decor’s a little dated but almost all of the rooms have balconies with sea views, and the blue-tiled pool on the sunny terrace is extremely enticing. The restaurant opens onto the waterfront promenade.
Eating
If you want to take on the local women in a tussle for the best fresh fruit and vegetables, get to the market (Trg Nikole Ðurkovića; 6am-3pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) before 8am.
Konoba Feral
A feral is a ship’s lantern, so it’s seafood that takes pride of place on the menu – not wild cat. The grilled squid is excellent and comes with a massive serving of seasonal vegetables and salads.
Getting There & Around
BOAT Taxi boats ply the coast during summer, charging about €10 to €15 to the beaches on the Luštica Peninsula. BUS Buses stop at the station just above the Old Town.
There are frequent buses to Kotor (€4, one hour), Budva (€6, 1¾ hours), Cetinje (€7, 2½ hours) and Podgorica (€9, three hours). At least two buses head to Dubrovnik daily (€10, two hours).
CAR A tortuous, often gridlocked, one-way system runs through the town, so you’re best to park in the parking building opposite the bus station.
If you’re driving to Tivat or Budva, it’s usually quicker to take the ferry (car/motorcycle/passenger €4/1.50/free; 24hr) from Kamenari (15km northeast of Herceg Novi) to Lepetane (north of Tivat). Queues can be long in summer.
Perast
Visit Montenegro and see Venice! 😉🥰 Looking like a chunk of Venice that has floated down the Adriatic and anchored itself onto the Bay of Kotor, Perast hums with melancholy memories of the days when it was rich and powerful.
This tiny town boasts 16 churches and 17 formerly grand palazzi, one of which has been converted into Perast Museum and showcases the town’s proud seafaring history.
The 55m bell tower belongs to St Nicholas’ Church, which also has a museum containing relics and beautifully embroidered vestments.
Just offshore are two peculiarly picturesque islands. The smaller St George’s Island (Sveti Ðorđe) rises from a natural reef and houses a Benedictine monastery shaded by cypresses.
Boats (€5 return) regularly head to its big sister, Our-Lady-of-the-Rock Island (Gospa od Škrpjela) , which was artificially created in the 15th century. Every year on 22 July, the locals row over with stones to continue the task. Its magnificent church was erected in 1630.
Perast makes an atmospheric and peaceful base from which to explore the bay. Several houses rent rooms or you can try the Hotel Conte , where options range from deluxe studios to two-bedroom seaview apartments in historic buildings around St Nicholas’ Church.
Its wonderful restaurant (mains €9 to €20) serves fresh fish with lashings of romance on a waterside terrace.
Visit Montenegro and find out that not far from Perast, Risan is the oldest town on the bay, dating to at least the 3rd century BC. Signposts point to some superb Roman mosaics (admission €2; 9am-7pm mid-May–mid-Oct) , discovered in 1930.
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